History in the making

Walking to any beach with signs warning you to stay out of the water is and eye opener. In San Diego I always cruised passed warnings and checkered flags, not concerned about my beach town that I grew up in. I was in my comfort zone. Being in Hawaii, my guard has been once again placed on full alert and signs warning of death create an erie feeling in anyone.



From the moment your feet hit that cool, grainy sand, all those feelings are put to rest. Looking at perfect 10-12ft sets peeling perfectly off the lava reefs, excitement takes over. Following the foot prints left in the sand before me I wonder who could have left these steps. Could it have been 9x ASP Champion Kelly Slater? No, he left weeks ago. Maybe one of my favorites, Shane Dorian? Cant be, he is on the big island.



What I do know, is that foot prints have been left by numerous influential surfers along this beach and will continue to be left for years to come. As long as the waves break in sequenced perfection, the worlds top pros will continue to walk this seven mile stretch of coast line on the north shore. Will some grom behind me question the steps that I have left? Or will they be washed away by the rising tide never to be discovered? Not saying that my foot prints are something to marvel over. I just know that what I am doing now, generations of pros to come will follow.

Reading the sign above, sucking in your gut, and taking the plunge into the warm waters of Hawaii hoping to make a difference in the year to come.

25th Birthday in Hawaii

Gliding across the ocean on a cloudy, rough afternoon, didn't help my birthday hangover. Partying the night before off tequila and enchiladas, my mood was anything but up.

Just out of reach from the Haleiwa harbor we spot our first whale. Spouting water and frolicking with its calf the whale submerges beneath the blue ocean. I grab my camera hoping for a chance to get a shot. Something is wrong. All I see is a black screen. Suddenly a whale leaps out of nowhere and the crowd gasps with excitement. I click the button to take a photo but all I see is black.

Just as it happened the whale is gone. "I missed it!" I yelled as I look at the black screen on the camera. Not only did I not see the whale leap but I missed the photo opp. Frantically I check the photos to see what I had taken when I see that I actually did catch the whale. Not as good as I thought it would be, I smiled with victory. Still hungover, the rest of the trip seemed worth while. Happy Birthday to me!

Down time

 I imagine that living on an island like Oahu could be comparable to a small town in the US. There really isn't much to do. This last month and the months prior, the rain has continuously fallen,lighting attacked the sky, and the water is polluted and brown from the agricultural fields surrounding us. It wouldn't be a problem if the waves were good. Yet I have not scored any good surf since the early months of the season. Instead I cruise around town on my scooter and take photos, go for hikes, watch television, day dream, and think of home.
I have never lived in a small town and I have never really had down time. I can honestly say that I feel as if I am getting island fever. Not so much that this place is unbearable, but never have I wanted to do SOMETHING so badly. If there were just waves I would surf or if I had something in common with some of these people out here I would go mingle. However I have kept to myself this winter and hung around my girlfriend and roommates mostly. The only interaction that I've had with people that live here is at work (which is left only to small talk) or with my roommates group of friends.
I miss my good friends back home and the ability to escape to Mexico or the mountains. There is no nightlife and what there is I would never consider a happening scene. Maybe I have just been spoiled in my life and I am being exposed to reality. Either way I am left to dream, talk with friends on the phone, and plan my next move in life.
Traveling is good for the spirit. It opens your eyes to who you are and what you truly strive to be. Hawaii is beautiful and I have memories that I will take with me through life. Have I taken in the true aloha spirit i came to find? I don't believe so. I don't think I have opened up enough or even given the place a chance to gain that. What I have done, is charged the waves of the North Shore and proven that I have the ability and skill to do it. So i'll take this with me and move on to my next destination with an optomistic view. I will try to be more open with strangers and I will enjoy the remainder of time that I have left here. I just hope the waves will pick up again, the rain will stop falling, and I will leave this place with a warm feeling instead of this eager hunger that wants to get home!

Winter reminds me of Mexico

I dream of the cool mornings and offshore winds that whip up the coast of Baja. Living in Hawaii I have become envious of my friends back home in San Diego who still venture south of the boarder.

Reef - Mexico Part 1 from Breton Carasso on Vimeo. As you can see, Mexico is amazing in the winter!