History in the making

Walking to any beach with signs warning you to stay out of the water is and eye opener. In San Diego I always cruised passed warnings and checkered flags, not concerned about my beach town that I grew up in. I was in my comfort zone. Being in Hawaii, my guard has been once again placed on full alert and signs warning of death create an erie feeling in anyone.



From the moment your feet hit that cool, grainy sand, all those feelings are put to rest. Looking at perfect 10-12ft sets peeling perfectly off the lava reefs, excitement takes over. Following the foot prints left in the sand before me I wonder who could have left these steps. Could it have been 9x ASP Champion Kelly Slater? No, he left weeks ago. Maybe one of my favorites, Shane Dorian? Cant be, he is on the big island.



What I do know, is that foot prints have been left by numerous influential surfers along this beach and will continue to be left for years to come. As long as the waves break in sequenced perfection, the worlds top pros will continue to walk this seven mile stretch of coast line on the north shore. Will some grom behind me question the steps that I have left? Or will they be washed away by the rising tide never to be discovered? Not saying that my foot prints are something to marvel over. I just know that what I am doing now, generations of pros to come will follow.

Reading the sign above, sucking in your gut, and taking the plunge into the warm waters of Hawaii hoping to make a difference in the year to come.